Friday, April 30, 2010

Day 4 — Nazareth, Gideon's Spring, Qumran, and Jerusalem


This morning, we loaded our luggage into our air-conditioned coach, departed Tiberias and Galilee and headed southeast toward Nazareth. The cloud cover made today far cooler than yesterday—still warm, but not hot.

On our way to Nazareth, we passed through Cana (now called Kfar Kana) where Jesus performed his first miracle—turning water into wine at a wedding in Cana.

Nazareth was the home of Joseph and Mary, as well as the town in which Jesus grew up. As we entered Nazareth, I could tell that the population—at least in this part of town—was predominantly muslim. The signage was mostly in Arabic and occasionally Hebrew. Upper Nazareth is where the Hebrew population lives. We got off the bus and took a walk through a small market where everything from meat to toys was being sold. And by meat, I mean a full side of butchered animal hanging up in the storefront.


We continued through the market and up a street to the Synagogue Church, built over the original synagogue where Jesus announced he was fulfilling Isaiah 61:1-2 that we read in Luke Chapter 4. Pastor Jim gave us a devotional talk describing that scene which was immediately followed by Jesus being rejected and tossed out of town. But the main message for us is that—as followers of Christ—we, too, are called to preach the good news to the poor, to proclaim freedom for the prisoners, and recovery of sight for the blind, to release the oppressed, and to proclaim the year of the Lord's favor.

We took a short rest stop at a Kibbutz restaurant and grocery store after Nazareth that was notable because this Jewish community makes their own pork products. If you know anything about Jewish life, that's not Kosher. But this community is of Russian descent and don't abide by the same food laws. Susie and I ordered some pepperoni, cheddar cheese, and fresh bread to make a simple sandwich to tide us over until our late lunch near the Dead Sea.



Leaving Nazareth, we turned south and went to a garden-like setting known as Gideon's Spring. This was the site mentioned in 1 Kings 7 when Gideon amasses an armed force of 32,000 soldiers to defeat the Midianites. And then God reduces his army down to a paltry 300 soldiers. Pastor Betsey shared with us in the quiet setting that we, too, will often get all our resources ready and lined up and then God steps in, changes things up, and brings us to a place where we must rely on Him and not trust in our own strength and might. She mentioned, too, that He will use nobodies like Gideon—and us—yet steps beside us to show that we are no longer nobodies, but daughters and sons of the Almighty God who is standing beside us in battle bringing us to victory.

After Gideon's Spring, our route took us south along the Jordan River parallel to the Israel/Jordan border and crossing into the West Bank which is Palestinian controlled. The border into the West Bank was quick to cross, but I spotted several armed guards at the checkpoint.

We were now driving through completely different terrain—this was desert. The scene was sandy, dry, with the occasional date palms orchard or small village. We saw Bedouin nomads herding their goats, a couple of camels, and distant mountains and caves.


It was in one of those caves in 1947 in Qumran, our next destination, where a Bedouin shepherd boy discovered what we now call the Dead Sea Scrolls. Now Qumran is a national park with a restaurant (where we had lunch), extensive gift shop, and walkthrough tour of the ruins discovered here in the 1950s. We were grateful that the weather was cool. Pastor Jim said he's been here on days when he felt like he was in a blast furnace.

On Monday, we'll stop and sea the Dead Sea, but as we drove past it, we learned from Tony our tour guide that the Dead Sea's waterline has dropped about 100ft. over the past 40 years. The Dead Sea is the lowest point on Earth at 1,300 ft. below sea level.

Now we were leaving the lowest point on Earth and going up to one of the highest points on Earth—at least spiritually speaking. We were going up to Jerusalem!


The road to Jerusalem from the east rises from 1,300 ft. below sea level to 2,600 ft. above sea level. That's why people always use the expression, "Going up to Jerusalem." As we neared the city, we drove through a long tunnel and Tony said to keep our eyes focused out the left side of the bus. He turned on some music appropriate for the moment—a praise song about going to Jerusalem—and suddenly there was the Holy City right before our eyes.

We parked the bus atop a viewpoint on Mount Scopus where we could see the Temple Mount, the walled Old City, and several other points of interest we'll be visiting in the days ahead.

Now, we are in our hotel, a 21- story building at the highest point in western Jerusalem. Our room looks to the northeast, but I imagine there's a fantastic view of the Old City from the east side of the building. It's a Friday evening, so it's the beginning of Shabot (the Sabbath) and things are a little different here. Shabot services were taking place in the meeting rooms downstairs, families were dressed in their Sabbath-best, and the elevators have a special setting for Shabot. Two of the four elevators run automatically and stop on every floor. That way, you do not have to work on the Sabbath by pushing elevator buttons. We took the elevator where we could push the buttons. But, maybe I felt a little guilty about it.

Tomorrow, I plan to get up early and go for a short run in Jerusalem. I'll be staying close to the hotel, but I expect it still to be a pretty amazing way to start the day and one of my more memorable runs. Even more interesting is that I emailed my roommate from my six-day bike ride along the California coast in 2008. His name is Boaz and he lives in Israel. He emailed back and he lives only 30 miles from Jerusalem. We'll connect tomorrow and try to meet up while I'm here!

Thanks for your continued prayers! Photos are posted here.

Thursday, April 29, 2010

Day 3 — Upper Jordan River Valley, the Sea of Galilee, and Baptisms in the Jordan River

Today started early, especially for me. I awoke extra early in order to get a half-hour run in before our touring day began. The sun wasn't quite up yet, so in early morning darkness, I ran along the Promenade the stretches for a few blocks along the western shore of the Sea of Galilee and then ran south on one of the main streets through Tiberias. The day was getting lighter, but the cloud cover kept the morning cool. It was quiet run except for the songbirds making a lot of noise throughout the city. I got back to the hotel room with a few miles behind me and an adventure ahead of me.

Following breakfast, we boarded our tour bus and headed north through the Upper Jordan River valley for about an hour's drive to Caesarea Philippi. Yesterday, after arriving in Israel, we went to Caesarea-on-the-Sea. This city is also named Caesarea because these cities in Bible times named their cities after Caesar in order to avoid paying taxes. Ancient Caesarea Philippi was located near one of the main sources of the Jordan River at the foot of Mount Hermon. The original name was Panias, after the Greek god Pan (the modern name Banias is an Arabic corruption of Panias). In Matthew 16:13-20, Jesus took his disciples to Caesarea Philippi as kind of a teaching road trip. This area was a cultural crossroads on a busy thoroughfare. Travelers could stop in this grotto and pay homage to the god of their choice—Pan, Zeus, whomever. It was in this place of worshipping dead gods that Jesus asked his disciples, "Who do men say that the Son of man is?" Peter answered for the disciples saying, "You are the Christ, the Son of the living God." To see the environment where Jesus asked this question makes so much sense now. He and the disciples were surrounded by temples for worshipping dead gods. Peter proclaims Jesus is the Son of the living God.

After Caesarea Philippi, we turned south with the Golan Heights to our left (and Syria beyond them) and Lebanon to our right, and drove to the ancient village of Korazim. The National Park that is there now has remains from the village including homes, streets, and a synagogue built from basalt. This city is notable in the Bible (Matt. 11:21) as one of three Jesus cursed for their lack of belief and repentance.

Our next stop was the Mount of Beatitudes. This beautiful church and gardens is located overlooking the Sea of Galilee on what is believed to be spot Jesus taught the Sermon on the Mount (Matthew 5-7). Here, we gathered together in a quiet corner of the garden while Pastor Jim shared briefly and then had each of us read three verses from Jesus' teaching. Here we were reading the words Jesus spoke on this mountainside 2,000 years earlier.

From the Mount of Beatitudes, we continued around the north edge of the Sea of Galilee to Capernaum, Jesus' home base during his three years of ministry. The location now reveals a synagogue built from sandstone probably in the 4th century. There is also the site of which is believed to be the Apostle Peter's home.

Our journey continued around the Sea of Galilee, across the mouth of the Jordan River, through the region of the Gadarenes where Jesus healed a demon-possessed man and cast 6,000 demonic spirits into the bodies of pigs grazing on a nearby hill (Matt. 8:28-34) and then they chucked themselves off a cliff and into the water below. We saw the cliff where this would have taken place and learned that this area, just below the Golan Heights, is noted for wild boars that can weigh up to 600 pounds and are open year-round for hunting.

Our lunch stop was next at a restaurant at Ein Gev Harbor that featured local tilapia from the Sea of Galilee known as "St. Peter's Fish." The fish came on the bone, head and all, and was delicious. Some in our group were looking for coins in its mouth (Matt. 17:27). After lunch, we boarded a boat that took us on a ride around the Sea of Galilee. The day was beautiful with the sun shining and a light breeze. But you could easily imagine the wind and the waves picking up quickly and Jesus silencing the storm. In fact, storms on this lake are common and they do come about very quickly. While on the boat, Pastor Jim and Betsey's daughter, Laurie, gave an excellent devotional about casting our nets on the other side of the boat. We took time also to give thanks to God for what He's doing in our lives and celebrating this experience so far.

The final stop of the day was a real special one. We went to the southern edge of the Sea of Galilee to the Jordan River at a place known as "Yardenit—The Baptismal Site on the Jordan River." Here, about 20 or so from our group decided to be baptized by Pastor Jim in the waters of the Jordan River—the same river where John the Baptist baptized Jesus. Yardenit is a large resort-like complex with baptism areas set up along the river for groups to conduct public baptisms. There's a viewing area for spectators, and even a snack bar and a gift shop. (Wanna buy a video and a t-shirt of your Jordan River baptism?) But, even with all that, the atmosphere is really special and meaningful. Each person in our group was genuinely touched by this experience and it will be a lifelong memory for each of them. The other thing that struck me was the diversity and internationality of the place. After our group got out of the water, a Russian Orthodox church group of about 30 men, women, and children from Moscow, Russia were being baptized. They sang worship songs in Russian and then all climbed into the water for what looked more like a "group swim" then a baptism!

Our journey concluded once we returned to the hotel to clean up and have dinner. Tomorrow, we leave Tiberias, our hotel, and the Sea of Galilee and head for Jerusalem!

You'll find all the photos from today here.

Days 1 & 2 — Seattle to London, UK to Tel Aviv, Israel to Tiberias, Israel

Let's see how much we can pack into 36 straight hours? We left SeaTac International Airport on Monday, April 26 around 7:15 p.m. No sleep it would seem was available for me as we flew direct to Heathrow International Airport in London, UK. We arrived in London around Noon their time but it was 2 in the morning our time. We met our tour director for the afternoon bus tour of London. But didn't board the bus until after I could find a decent latte!

Our bus was comfortable and a few of the 52 among our team decided to nap. But I soaked in the sights. It was a whirlwind, but we saw all of the highlights: Trafalgar Square, London Bridge, Westminster Abbey, Parliament, Buckingham Palace, The Eye of London, and of course, Big Ben, which we learned is the name of the bell inside the tower. The tower is actually named St. Stephen's Tower.

Following our tour, we had dinner at an authentic London Pub. I was excited that the meal of choice for our entire group was Fish and Chips! It was delicious. But our visit to London would have to end there. Our next stop was back at Heathrow to catch our 10:30 p.m. flight to Tel Aviv. By now, I was fading and ready for some serious Zs. I changed clothes at the terminal to get comfy, laid down on the floor, and started to doze off. I was awakened by voices in a language I didn't understand but sounded familiar: Hebrew. Yep, this was the flight to Tel Aviv. About a half dozen hasidic young men were talking and then as we began to board they excitedly pulled away from our area and began praying, bobbing their heads back and forth, dressed in long black coats, black hats, and wearing long beards (untrimmed at the corners.)

The flight went quickly and I definitely slept. Upon our arrival in Tel Aviv, we were met by the remainder of our group—Tom from Florida, and Rick and Laurie who had spent some time in France ahead of us. We also met our tour guide for the week: Tony. He's a jewish man with a wealth of knowledge who has been leading tour groups for more than 40 years. He knows the history of the area, the people, the three major faiths, and I suspect much more.

Our agenda for today was to have breakfast in Jaffa (the historical port city of the biblical Joppa), followed by Ceasarea, then a trip to the top of Mount Carmel, lunch, and finally Megiddo. Joffa was a fun first stop. We visited a couple of small street front bakeries that had delicious cheese, egg, or meat stuffed breakfast pastries. Susie and I found some iced blended coffee, sat down at a small table, and tried to take in the realization that we were in Israel!

We drove along the Mediterranean coastline talking about the significance of the biblical city of Joppa. This was where Jonah left for Tarshish and was swallowed by the whale. The New Testament account of St. Peter's resurrection of the widow Tabitha written in Acts 9:36-42 takes place in Jaffa. Peter later had here a vision in which God told him not to distinguish between Jews and Gentiles as told in Acts 10:10-16. We passed by the house of Simon the Tanner mentioned in that chapter.

We drove on to Caesarea which is an archeological marvel. So many ruins here have been uncovered and preserved over the past 50 years. We walked along the shore and then stopped where Pastor Jim shared with us that this city, in fact this very point on the globe was where the Great Commission first became real. The message of Christ was sent to the unbelieving Gentile world from this port. We took time to consider our personal and appropriate response to the Great Commission. If you've heard Pastor Jim say that before, it was at this location where he first considered those words.

Following Caesarea, our guide Tony took us to the top of Mt. Carmel. The view of the Jezreel Valley below is stunning. You can see all the way to Mt. Tabor to the east and to Mt. Gilboa to the south. We discussed that valley and the incredible scene that will play out in the Book of Revelation. But more about that when we visited Megiddo. We were actually at a site commemorating the Prophet Elijah when he challenged the prophets of Baal. You can read about it in 1 Kings 18. Tony did a great job detailing the scene and retelling the story. Pastor Jim followed up with some personal application for us. It really is amazing to be standing on the site where a biblical story played out thousands of years ago.

After Mt. Carmel, we headed toward Tiberias for lunch and enjoyed a sit down meal that filled us full. There's a downside to not knowing the cuisine here. When we were seated there was a variety of garnishes and sauces, oranges, lettuce, and cabbage. Then a plate of flatbread was brought out. Hmmm. Is this our meal? None of us knew. So we assumed it was and ate everything in sight. Then each of us was brought another plate with the main course. Grilled chicken, curry rice, and vegetables. No matter, we'll eat that, too!

Lunch was followed by a final stop at Tel Megiddo. A "tel" is an archeological dig site with several layers of cities one atop the other. We visited a small museum that told the story of the surrounding "tel" and the history of Megiddo. Then Pastor Rick Sherman gave us a brief devotional about Megiddo, the Valley of Jezreel, and the endtimes epic battle of Armageddon (which means "mountain of Megiddo") written about in Revelation 16. We climbed up the mountain amid rocks and ruins and then down a series of 183 steps and through a long dark tunnel into the ancient water system. It reminded us of the queue line for the Indiana Jones Ride at Disneyland. But this was the real thing.

Our final stop of the day was our hotel in Tiberias, right on the shore of the Sea of Galilee. I don't think there are sufficient words for any of our team members to describe how glad we were to have a hot shower, a bed, and a fresh change of clothes!

Tomorrow is a new adventure with some of the highlights being a visit to the Sea of Galilee and baptisms in the Jordan River!

You should be able to view all of my photos at http://gallery.me.com/eternaldesign2#100703

Thanks for your continued prayers! Shalom and Layla tov!